Chenille Hot Pads

This week Mary Lawrence came to teach us how to make Chenille Hot Pads from flannel.  This was the easiest project that we have had, and it was LOTS O' FUN as you can see in the photos.
Here Mary is showing us the fabric combinations that we can choose.

Tutorial for Chenille Hot Pad

Use 2 contrasting colors of flannel fabric.

Cut 2 large squares 9 1/2" of the focus fabric.

Cut 1 smaller square 9" of the focus fabric.

Cut 2 smaller squares 9" of the contrasting fabric.

Cut 1 square 8 1/2" of batting.

Cut 1 strip 3" x width of fabric

Make a quilt sandwich of the 9 1/2" focus fabric squares and the square of batting.

 

Lay the 2 contrasting 9" squares on top of the quilt sandwich. Lay them both right sides up. Then place the remaining focus fabric 9" square on top of them. Again laying the square right side up.  Pin all 6 of these layers together.

Now sew diagonally from corner to corner. (Use a stitch length of about 3). Then sew parallel lines about 3/8" to 1/2" apart on each side of the original diagonal line.

Sew until you have 6 channels on each diagonal as shown below.

Then carefully cut up the center of each channel. You will be cutting through the top 3 layers only! Stop about 1/4" from the stitching lines that crisscross in the center of the hot pad.

All that is left to do is to trim the sides and square up the pad. Attach the binding using a 1/2" seam allowance. The binding can be sewn down on the back side by hand or by machine.

Here we are finishing our chenille pads and lending a helping hand. It's so much fun sewing with the ladies at Coastal Haven.  They are all so helpful and willing.

Yes!  Rosanne did not escape my camera today!

You can brush the cut sections to "fluff" them or simply toss the finished hot pad in the washer to "fluff" them.

Aren't we proud of our work? Just look at those big smiles.

Even left-handers can do this project ;-)

Of course, our cook was on hand to feed us a nourishing lunch. (I think Sandy offered a helping hand.)  This time it was sloppy joes and 2 kinds of soup! The chicken soup was soooo full of chicken and vegetables, there wasn't any room for noodles. For dessert there were 2 kinds of brownies. Thank you, Linda, once again for a great meal.

Breakfast at Panini Pete's

About once a month during the winter, the ladies at Coastal Haven go into Fairhope and have breakfast at Panini Pete's followed by a visit to The Company of Angel's store.
These pictures say it all. (And this time Rosanne is in the pictures!) Thanks, Deanne, for sharing your photos.

Starburst Hot Pad Tutorial

These directions are the best of my recollection from the class I took a few days ago.  The instructor did not have written directions, so I've tried to recreate what we did in that class. I've also added a few of my own suggestions.

Starburst Hot Pad Tutorial

Materials:

Fabric A

Cut 12 – 3” x 4 1/2”

         4 – 3 ½”  x 3 ½”

Fabric B

Cut 8 – 3” x 4 ½”

Fabric C

Cut 8 – 3” x 4 ½”

Fabric D

Cut 8 – 3” x 4 ½”

Binding = Width of Fabric x 2 ¼”

Hanger = 1” x 5”

Backing = 10” x 10”

Foundation = 10” x 10”

Batting = 10” x 10”

Directions:

Cut fabrics.  You can use any number of fabrics that you like – 2,3,4, or 5. These directions and photos show 4 fabrics.  Fabric A was used for row 1 and row 4 in the sample. Row 1 uses 4 rectangles while all other rows use 8 rectangles. Careful measuring is very important in making the stars symmetrical.

Row 1

Step 1:

Take the 4 rectangles for the first row and press ½” along one long side of each  rectangle

 

Then fold the pressed rectangle to form a square. Press again.  This pressing line is used as the sewing line.  You may want to draw a line down the middle of the rectangle for the sewing line instead of pressing.

Step 2:

Draw a line down the center of the foundation fabric from top to bottom (I’m using a scrap of brown fabric). Then draw a line across the center from left to right.  Finally, draw diagonal lines from corner to corner, so that all of the lines cross at the center of the foundation. These lines will serve as guides when you begin sewing the star points.

Step 3:

Place one of the Row 1 rectangles along one of the guidelines.  Make sure that the center of the rectangle aligns with the center of the foundation, as shown in the next picture.

Stitch down the center of the rectangle. Use the fold line on the rectangle to align with the line drawn on the foundation fabric. Take a back stitch at the beginning of your sewing for reinforcement.

Step 4:

Place another rectangle above the 1^st one and stitch down the center of the 2^nd rectangle as shown below.

Fold as shown below.

Step 5:

Lay the 3^rd rectangle as shown and sew down the center. Do the same with the 4^th rectangle.

Then fold the 3^rd and 4^th rectangles the same as the first 2. Then press.

Your center should look like the photo below.

Step 6:

Place the foundation on the piece of batting and sew ¼” around the outer perimeter of the center pieces.

ROW 2

Step 1:

Measuring down the center of 1 of the pieces, place a row 2 rectangle ½” from the center as shown. Careful measuring is extremely important in making a symmetrical starburst.

Stitch down the center of this piece like you did in row 1. 

Add the 2^nd rectangle directly above the 1st one. Add the 3^rd rectangle to the left of the 1st one & add the 4^th rectangle directly across from the 3rd one. Your first 4 rectangles should look like the ones below.

Fold and press these pieces

.

Step 2:

Add the 5^th rectangle to row 2 as shown, making sure to place the rectangle ½” from the center.

Add the 6^th, 7^th, & 8^th rectangles in the same manner as 3, 4, & 5.

Fold and press. You should now see the center star being formed.

Stitch 1/4” around the outside perimeter of Row 2.  Stitching around the perimeter helps keep each row flat and in place.

Do Rows 3, 4, & 5 in the same manner as Row 2. Always start a row with a star point that was one of the first 4 in the last row. I don't know if that is clear, but if you look at the picture above, you can see that the last 4 star points sit on top of the first 4 in that row. Always measure ½” down from the inner star points for accurate placement. Remember to stitch the perimeter of each finished row.

Here is the completed Row 3:

Row 4:

Row 5:

Corner Squares

Step 1:

Draw a diagonal line on the back of each of the corner squares.

Step 2:

Place a square back side up on the block. Line up the top edge and the left edge of the square with a 4^th row star point as shown below.  Then stitch on the diagonal line.

Press down to form a corner triangle.  Repeat for the other corners.

Step 3:

Stitch around the outer perimeter of the block.  Check that you are satisfied with all of your star points.  If not, rip out to the offending point and fix your problem now.

When you are satisfied, trim your block.

Finishing

Step 1:

Lay the block on the backing, wrong sides together.  Stitch about 1/8” around the perimeter of the block.  Trim the backing even with the block.

Step 2:

Press the binding down the middle of the long side. Attach the binding to the front side of the block. Do this the same way you normally put binding on your quilts.

Step 3:

Take the 1” x 5” hanger piece.  Fold it down the middle (long ways). Then fold each long side to the middle.  This makes a ¼” x 5” hanger.  Press. Then stitch the long edges together.

Step 4:

Attach the hanger to a back corner of the hot pad as shown.  Stitch about 1/8” inside the seam allowance.

Hand sew the binding to the back of the hot pad.

Here is the finished Starburst Hot Pad!